范文一:衬衫的工艺流程
班级:
学号:
姓名:
衬衫制作
一 规格170/88A
衣长(L) 胸围(B) 肩宽(S) 袖长(SL) 领围(N)
72 108 46 59 39 衣片尺寸表:(单位:cm)
前片 后片 过肩(覆势)
L-3=69 10 衣片长 (L-3)-1.5+4=71.5
N/5-1=6.8 N/10+0.5=4.4 领深
S/10=4.6 1 S/10-0.6=4 落肩
B/5+1=22.6 袖窿深 对齐
腰节 号/4=42.5 对齐
1.7 搭门
N/5-1.5=6.3 N/5+0.4=8.2 领宽
S/2-1.5=21.5 S/2+0.5=23.5 肩宽 S/2-0.5+2(裥)=24.5
23.5-1=22.5 胸宽 前肩宽-1 后肩宽-1.3
B/4-1=26 B/4+1=28 胸围
袖片 袖衩 袖克夫 领片的尺寸:(单位:cm)
袖片长 袖山高 袖山斜线 袖口大 袖衩 袖口裥 袖克夫 领片 测
AH
53 9 ~50.4 25.2 29 11 2*3 19.5 长25宽
6
二 款式图
四 工艺流程
(一)工具材料
材料的准备:面料:格纹棉布1.6m
辅料:白色无纺衬1m 白色纽扣8粒。
(二)工艺流程
排料——裁剪——做领——缉翻襟.里襟——烫袋——钉袋——拼接过肩——装领——做袖——装袖——缝合摆缝袖——装袖克夫——卷缉底边——锁眼——钉扣——熨烫
1 排料:根据纸样的尺寸,衣料的幅宽定排料图。把布料熨烫平整,注意布纹线,对条对格。
2 裁剪:核对尺寸,纸样片是否正确。然后用大头针把面料、面料与纸样固定好。裁剪时注意纸样的正反面,以免裁出一顺的衣片,双幅面料正面朝里对折,沿纸样的裁边画线。
3做领
?(翻领正面相对,车缝1cm,外翻缉0.5cm明线。
?(领座将粘衬的一片领座折烫1cm缉明线0.5cm,然后将2片领座正面夹于翻领面车缝1cm,外翻1cm 。
4 缉翻襟里襟
? 翻襟正面与前身左片反面对齐车缝1cm 然后翻与正面熨烫两边各缉0.6cm明线。
? 里襟:将里襟向里翻两折缉0.1cm明线。
5 烫袋
胸袋一个袋口面里反握2次,净宽2.5cm ,袋边缉明线0.1cm。 6钉袋
钉在左衣片上,袋边缉明线0.1cm。封袋口三角宽0.6cm,袋与大身对条对格,袋位准确,高低大小对称。
7拼接过肩
后衣片:将前后片过肩的正面各对齐后大身,车缝1cm,反折外过肩
缉0.1cm明线,然后前衣身对准过肩车缝1cm,缝份后倒,外过肩折烫
1cm,缉明线0.1cm。
前衣片:车缝1cm,向后倒缝折烫1cm,缉0.1cm明线
8装领
将另一片领座与衣身对齐车缝1cm,翻于领座内缉明线0.1cm一周 9做袖
?袖口(宝剑头)缉明线0.1cm一周。
?袖克夫正面相对车缝1cm,翻折缉明线0.5cm。
10装袖
衣身敞开缝合衣袖,以表面为内对齐衣身与袖子做缝合衣袖车缝,弯曲强的部分要伸展缝份,车缝1cm。
11缝合摆缝 袖低缝
正面相对车缝1cm,缝份倒向后身。
12装袖克夫
克夫里片与袖子反面对齐车缝1cm,将缝份折入袖克夫缉明线0.1cm 13卷缉底边
将底边内握2次缉明线1cm。
14锁眼,钉扣,熨烫
在左衣身锁扣眼,右衣身缝扣,扣眼中心对齐纽扣中心,台领的扣眼要制成固定一端的锁缝。
五 心得感想
经过5周往返于新校区和文峰校区之间,我们结束了男衬衫的制作。在这过程中,有困难,有满足,有欣慰,更多的是收获。
通过衬衣工艺的学习,在老师的悉心指导下,掌握了衬衣的整个工艺流程,虽然衬衣逢制比较的难,流程也相当的复杂,但只要掌握了制衣的工艺流程,一步步慢慢的,不急噪,衬衣的缝制就不难学习了.还要注意的就是在具体操作时如果不明白的一定要问老师或同学,弄明白再做,否则就事倍功半,甚至还得返工.
六 成衣展示
范文二:女式衬衫的详细工艺流程和工艺说明
工艺流程:
门里襟粘衬——车缝省道——烫门里襟、烫省——缝合肩缝——做领——绱领——做袖子(做袖开衩、袖克夫)——绱袖子及缝侧缝——绱袖克夫与卷底边——锁眼、钉扣——整烫
工艺说明:
1、烫门里襟粘合衬:把前片反面朝上,在门里襟处烫上无纺粘衬,粘合衬的宽度超过止口净线0.7~1cm。
2、车缝前、后省道:车缝腋下省、后省是要对准上下层的标记,正面相叠,缝线要顺直,起针要用回针固定,省尖要缝得尖,左右两片省缝线长短要一致,缝省尖时要留出线头10cm左右,然后打结,以防缝线脱落。
3、烫门里襟、烫省
(1)、烫门里襟。先把门里襟的边沿按0.5~1cm的缝份往反面折烫,然后在正面车缝0.1cm的明线。再烫门里襟。其宽度按刀眼位置,熨烫时必须从领口处往下烫,丝缕要顺直。
(2)、烫腋下省、腰省。烫肋省时要把省道向下烫倒,烫腰省时要把省道往前中止口处和后中线烫倒。注意:省尖部位的胖形要烫散,不可有折裥的现象。
4、缝合肩缝:由于后肩缝略长于前肩缝,故在缝合时要将前片放在上层,后肩缝中间应略加归拢,吃势要均匀,缝缝1cm要顺直。三线包缝后将肩缝折向后片烫倒。
5、做领:烫领衬——缝合上领——翻上领——车缝上领外止口线——下领粘衬——车缝下领里的领底线——缝合上、下领——车下领明线。
6、绱领:
(1)、缝合下领面与领圈。缝合时,要将下领面端点和衣片的止口对齐,下领面、中点与后领中点对准,下领面的肩点剪口与衣片肩缝对齐。注意:领圈弧线不可拉还或抽紧,起止针都要回针。
(2)、缝合下领里与领圈。将下领里盖住线缝,沿领底线车缝明线0.1cm。
7、做袖子:
(1)、袖开衩缝制:剪开袖衩开口——扣烫小袖衩——缝小袖衩——缝合宝剑头袖衩——车缝袖裥。
(2)、做袖克夫:粘衬——做袖克夫——翻烫袖克夫,两角要烫方正。
8、绱袖子及缝合侧缝:袖山头抽线——绱袖子——缝合侧缝与袖底缝合。
9、绱袖克夫:
(1)、先按袖口剪口位置缝住两个活褶,然后把褶烫倒。
(2)、缝合里袖克夫与袖口。里袖克夫正面与反面相对,按净线缝合。
(3)、表袖克夫压线。将袖片正面朝上,从下面翻出袖克夫,使表袖克夫正面朝上,沿扣烫线车0.1cm的明线。
10、卷底摆:将底摆的2.5cm缝缝,扣烫出宽为1cm的折边,然后在折进1.5cm,最后在底摆反面沿折边车1.4cm宽的明线。
11、锁眼、钉扣:
(1)、锁眼:下领横眼一只,门襟扣眼五只,扣眼沿门襟边为1.5cm,扣眼的位置根据设计要求进行定位。袖克夫扣眼在大袖衩一边,为横眼一只。离边沿1.5cm,居袖克夫中部。
(2)、定扣位:门里襟并齐,放平,定位时必须把门襟翻起,用铅笔点位做记号,定位要正确。
(3)、钉扣:按点位钉扣,钉扣时上下针脚要整齐。
12、整烫。
范文三:衬衫裙子工艺流程
服装设计与工程专业
服装工艺设计(二)实习课程
班 级: 服工112
学 号: 201105024209
姓 名:
指导老师: 宋英莉
日 期: 2013年9月22日
equipment, components, equipment, temporary construction facilities, processed with strict compliance with provisions of construction floor plans, smooth roads and drainage, site formation. ----3, the site looks dignified and elegant and tidy, advertising slogans to write eye-catching appearance, walls to be clean and tidy. 4, "six-second figure"----cards to complete, custom, eye-catching, hanging in the obvious place. Management----5, district administration, "launch of Qing dynasty" focuses on managing the "cleaning, recycling, use," four Central Bank; the work is finished, clean, clear, work product protection in all procedures to periodically check the appraisals in a timely manner. 6, clean health----engineering work sites, temporary facilities clean and tidy inside and outside. 7, mechanical health----engineering machinery, vehicles are maintained in good condition, looks clean, and free from dirt, dust, electrical switchgear (box) complete with lock, mechanical safety protection equipment and complete, sensitive and reliable. 8, fire, defend----perfect fire system, set in accordance with requirements of fire equipment, set up obvious fire safety signs and signage, provide effective fire-fighting equipment, establishment of a security system, and out of the site staff to wear to work, marks and signs, implements
服装工艺设计(二)实习报告 一、实习目的
1. 通过实习进一步熟练掌握电动工业缝纫机的使用;
2(掌握衬衫基本款式的工艺设计流程、工艺制作方法,完成衬衫基本款式
的工艺制作;
3(考察裙装款式和结构设计能力,并熟悉裙装常用款式的工艺流程及制作
4(具备一定的服装弊病分析能力和实际动手能力,为以后走向工作岗位从
事实际工作奠定基础。
二、 实习地点
服装工艺实验室142
三、时间安排
1、第1周:9月2日——9月6日衬衫的制作
2、第2周:9月9日——9月13日裙子的制作
3、第3周:9月16日——9月20日自由设计及实习报告的书写 四. 实习内容
(一)衬衫的制作
(款式设计: 1
设计图
2(结构设计:包括成品规格设计、细部规格设计、制版:
equipment, components, equipment, temporary construction facilities, processed with strict compliance with provisions of construction floor plans, smooth roads and drainage, site formation. ----3, the site looks dignified and elegant and tidy, advertising slogans to write eye-catching appearance, walls to be clean and tidy. 4, "six-second figure"----cards to complete, custom, eye-catching, hanging in the obvious place. Management----5, district administration, "launch of Qing dynasty" focuses on managing the "cleaning, recycling, use," four Central Bank; the work is finished, clean, clear, work product protection in all procedures to periodically check the appraisals in a timely manner. 6, clean health----engineering work sites, temporary facilities clean and tidy inside and outside. 7, mechanical health----engineering machinery, vehicles are maintained in good condition, looks clean, and free from dirt, dust, electrical switchgear (box) complete with lock, mechanical safety protection equipment and complete, sensitive and reliable. 8, fire, defend----perfect fire system, set in accordance with requirements of fire equipment, set up obvious fire safety signs and signage, provide effective fire-fighting equipment, establishment of a security system, and out of the site staff to wear to work, marks and signs, implements
equipment, components, equipment, temporary construction facilities, processed with strict compliance with provisions of construction floor plans, smooth roads and drainage, site formation. ----3, the site looks dignified and elegant and tidy, advertising slogans to write eye-catching appearance, walls to be clean and tidy. 4, "six-second figure"----cards to complete, custom, eye-catching, hanging in the obvious place. Management----5, district administration, "launch of Qing dynasty" focuses on managing the "cleaning, recycling, use," four Central Bank; the work is finished, clean, clear, work product protection in all procedures to periodically check the appraisals in a timely manner. 6, clean health----engineering work sites, temporary facilities clean and tidy inside and outside. 7, mechanical health----engineering machinery, vehicles are maintained in good condition, looks clean, and free from dirt, dust, electrical switchgear (box) complete with lock, mechanical safety protection equipment and complete, sensitive and reliable. 8, fire, defend----perfect fire system, set in accordance with requirements of fire equipment, set up obvious fire safety signs and signage, provide effective fire-fighting equipment, establishment of a security system, and out of the site staff to wear to work, marks and signs, implements
3. 面料选择:因为细节的花样比较少,所以选择了棉布来诠释我的设计。 4. 制作过程:
第一步:放缝份、排料、剪裁。
第二步:做门襟。纸样上设计的是1.5厘米的门襟。在1.5厘米外放6cm,贴上称,卷3cm边,熨烫,再卷3cm的边,熨烫平整,然后缉两道明线。
门禁完成图:
第三步:把后片与前片的肩膀处缝合起来。
第四步:上袖子。把袖片的前袖窿和后袖窿分别和衣片的前袖窿和后袖窿
对齐。然后从前袖窿对齐处开始缝合,当快缝制袖窿顶端时停止,再从后袖equipment, components, equipment, temporary construction facilities, processed with strict compliance with provisions of construction floor plans, smooth roads and drainage, site formation. ----3, the site looks dignified and elegant and tidy, advertising slogans to write eye-catching appearance, walls to be clean and tidy. 4, "six-second figure"----cards to complete, custom, eye-catching, hanging in the obvious place. Management----5, district administration, "launch of Qing dynasty" focuses on managing the "cleaning, recycling, use," four Central Bank; the work is finished, clean, clear, work product protection in all procedures to periodically check the appraisals in a timely manner. 6, clean health----engineering work sites, temporary facilities clean and tidy inside and outside. 7, mechanical health----engineering machinery, vehicles are maintained in good condition, looks clean, and free from dirt, dust, electrical switchgear (box) complete with lock, mechanical safety protection equipment and complete, sensitive and reliable. 8, fire, defend----perfect fire system, set in accordance with requirements of fire equipment, set up obvious fire safety signs and signage, provide effective fire-fighting equipment, establishment of a security system, and out of the site staff to wear to work, marks and signs, implements
窿对齐处向袖窿顶端慢慢推进缝合,把多余的袖窿量均匀的缩缝制袖窿顶端。
第五步:缝合衣片侧缝和袖侧缝。
第六步: 袖开叉与袖克夫的缝制。女衬衫袖开叉较为简单。在做袖开叉时,缝制前熨烫平整,这样便于缝制。做袖克夫时,缝制前要先确定好袖克夫的长度,以便可以把袖子包裹完整,并且要熨烫平整,便于缝制。
完成如下图:
第七步:衣领翻折领的制作。衣领制作的是没有领台的翻折领,剪好领片之后粘衬;先把领面部分表面相对缝合在里面,然后翻过来熨烫,最后缉上双道明线。
完成如图:
equipment, components, equipment, temporary construction facilities, processed with strict compliance with provisions of construction floor plans, smooth roads and drainage, site formation. ----3, the site looks dignified and elegant and tidy, advertising slogans to write eye-catching appearance, walls to be clean and tidy. 4, "six-second figure"----cards to complete, custom, eye-catching, hanging in the obvious place. Management----5, district administration, "launch of Qing dynasty" focuses on managing the "cleaning, recycling, use," four Central Bank; the work is finished, clean, clear, work product protection in all procedures to periodically check the appraisals in a timely manner. 6, clean health----engineering work sites, temporary facilities clean and tidy inside and outside. 7, mechanical health----engineering machinery, vehicles are maintained in good condition, looks clean, and free from dirt, dust, electrical switchgear (box) complete with lock, mechanical safety protection equipment and complete, sensitive and reliable. 8, fire, defend----perfect fire system, set in accordance with requirements of fire equipment, set up obvious fire safety signs and signage, provide effective fire-fighting equipment, establishment of a security system, and out of the site staff to wear to work, marks and signs, implements
第八步:缝合领子与衣身。缝制时要注意把衣身上的领子部分都包进去,并且缝制过程中要时刻注意领子的松紧度,适时的调整,以便缝制好的领子平整,不扭曲。
第九步:卷下摆、钉纽扣。
门襟处扣子局部图:
(二)裙子的制作
1.款式设计图,完成品面图如下:
equipment, components, equipment, temporary construction facilities, processed with strict compliance with provisions of construction floor plans, smooth roads and drainage, site formation. ----3, the site looks dignified and elegant and tidy, advertising slogans to write eye-catching appearance, walls to be clean and tidy. 4, "six-second figure"----cards to complete, custom, eye-catching, hanging in the obvious place. Management----5, district administration, "launch of Qing dynasty" focuses on managing the "cleaning, recycling, use," four Central Bank; the work is finished, clean, clear, work product protection in all procedures to periodically check the appraisals in a timely manner. 6, clean health----engineering work sites, temporary facilities clean and tidy inside and outside. 7, mechanical health----engineering machinery, vehicles are maintained in good condition, looks clean, and free from dirt, dust, electrical switchgear (box) complete with lock, mechanical safety protection equipment and complete, sensitive and reliable. 8, fire, defend----perfect fire system, set in accordance with requirements of fire equipment, set up obvious fire safety signs and signage, provide effective fire-fighting equipment, establishment of a security system, and out of the site staff to wear to work, marks and signs, implements
2(结构设计:根据自己的体型尺寸进行规格设计,然后打版,包括成品规格设计、细部规格设计、制版:
3. 面料选择:选择的的比较有立体感的稍厚的面料。
4. 制作过程:
第一步:排料剪裁。
第二步: 把剪好的各布片缝合在一起,缝制方法同衬衫前片,左侧完全缝合,左侧不和缝。
第三步:做裙摆,设计为工字褶,5cm对一个褶。缝左侧,右侧留一段装隐形拉链。
第四步:安装隐形拉链,用单边压脚将隐形拉链固定在右侧缝上,上下端多余部分修剪固定,来回打倒针,防止拉链拉脱。
第五步:包边,将黑色料子裁4cm宽长条,注意要斜裁,各边向内翻折1cm,用熨斗压平,一边稍短与另一边。袖口和领子处包一厘米边,注意不要包扭。 equipment, components, equipment, temporary construction facilities, processed with strict compliance with provisions of construction floor plans, smooth roads and drainage, site formation. ----3, the site looks dignified and elegant and tidy, advertising slogans to write eye-catching appearance, walls to be clean and tidy. 4, "six-second figure"----cards to complete, custom, eye-catching, hanging in the obvious place. Management----5, district administration, "launch of Qing dynasty" focuses on managing the "cleaning, recycling, use," four Central Bank; the work is finished, clean, clear, work product protection in all procedures to periodically check the appraisals in a timely manner. 6, clean health----engineering work sites, temporary facilities clean and tidy inside and outside. 7, mechanical health----engineering machinery, vehicles are maintained in good condition, looks clean, and free from dirt, dust, electrical switchgear (box) complete with lock, mechanical safety protection equipment and complete, sensitive and reliable. 8, fire, defend----perfect fire system, set in accordance with requirements of fire equipment, set up obvious fire safety signs and signage, provide effective fire-fighting equipment, establishment of a security system, and out of the site staff to wear to work, marks and signs, implements
第六步:所有毛边锁边,裙下摆锁边后卷一厘米,辑明线固定。 完成如图:
五、弊病分析及改良方法
1(裙子胸前省做的不够合体,可改进纸板。
2(衬衫领子辑的不够精致。
3( 布料颜色选的有些老气,成品考虑换面料。
六. 实习体会
转眼间已经是大三上学习期了,这次的实习做的是衬衣和裙子,有了之前上机的经验与教训,制作起来总得来说还是比较得心应手的。我认为重点是制版的精确与否~
我们严格按照课本上的版,尽量很精确的打板,完成之后我先用白胚布制作了一个衬衫,由于白胚布比较挺括,做出来效果很不好。但是熟悉了制作衬衣的工艺。通过亲身试穿白胚样衣,发现肩部很宽,领子有些大,很合体。因此对纸样有所更改:把肩线缩短了1cm,袖窿整体挖深1cm。取消前片腹部省。改用较柔软的布料做成衣。效果还不错。
裙子在于自己设计以及把设计图变成成衣的能力,其中考察到我们的创造能力,机缝能力,和制作工艺的能力,是一次很好的锻炼。完成后,看着自己做的裙子很合身,更是激发了我们设计制作的积极性和信心~
在实习课上培养了我们更好的实践动手能力和技术的灵活运用能力,启equipment, components, equipment, temporary construction facilities, processed with strict compliance with provisions of construction floor plans, smooth roads and drainage, site formation. ----3, the site looks dignified and elegant and tidy, advertising slogans to write eye-catching appearance, walls to be clean and tidy. 4, "six-second figure"----cards to complete, custom, eye-catching, hanging in the obvious place. Management----5, district administration, "launch of Qing dynasty" focuses on managing the "cleaning, recycling, use," four Central Bank; the work is finished, clean, clear, work product protection in all procedures to periodically check the appraisals in a timely manner. 6, clean health----engineering work sites, temporary facilities clean and tidy inside and outside. 7, mechanical health----engineering machinery, vehicles are maintained in good condition, looks clean, and free from dirt, dust, electrical switchgear (box) complete with lock, mechanical safety protection equipment and complete, sensitive and reliable. 8, fire, defend----perfect fire system, set in accordance with requirements of fire equipment, set up obvious fire safety signs and signage, provide effective fire-fighting equipment, establishment of a security system, and out of the site staff to wear to work, marks and signs, implements
发和培养了学生的原创性思维,通过想象,联想,逆向,思维训练,设计构思创
新,信息采集,材料构成,工艺设计展示等一系列训练,完成从设计到制作出产
品的全过程,提高了原创设计能力和动手能力。
equipment, components, equipment, temporary construction facilities, processed with strict compliance with provisions of construction floor plans, smooth roads and drainage, site formation. ----3, the site looks dignified and elegant and tidy, advertising slogans to write eye-catching appearance, walls to be clean and tidy. 4, "six-second figure"----cards to complete, custom, eye-catching, hanging in the obvious place. Management----5, district administration, "launch of Qing dynasty" focuses on managing the "cleaning, recycling, use," four Central Bank; the work is finished, clean, clear, work product protection in all procedures to periodically check the appraisals in a timely manner. 6, clean health----engineering work sites, temporary facilities clean and tidy inside and outside. 7, mechanical health----engineering machinery, vehicles are maintained in good condition, looks clean, and free from dirt, dust, electrical switchgear (box) complete with lock, mechanical safety protection equipment and complete, sensitive and reliable. 8, fire, defend----perfect fire system, set in accordance with requirements of fire equipment, set up obvious fire safety signs and signage, provide effective fire-fighting equipment, establishment of a security system, and out of the site staff to wear to work, marks and signs, implements
范文四:衬衫制作工艺流程
班级:学号:姓名:
衬衫制作
一 规格170/88A
衣片尺寸表:(单位:cm)
袖片 袖衩 袖克夫 领片的尺寸:(单位:cm)
二 款式图
四 工艺流程 (一)工具材料
材料的准备:面料:格纹棉布1.6m
辅料:白色无纺衬1m 白色纽扣8粒。
(二)工艺流程
排料——裁剪——做领——缉翻襟.里襟——烫袋——钉袋——拼接过肩——装领——做袖——装袖——缝合摆缝袖——装袖克夫——卷缉底边——锁眼——钉扣——熨烫
1 排料:根据纸样的尺寸,衣料的幅宽定排料图。把布料熨烫平整,注意布纹线,对条对格。
2 裁剪:核对尺寸,纸样片是否正确。然后用大头针把面料、面料与纸样固定好。裁剪时注意纸样的正反面,以免裁出一顺的衣片,双幅面料正面朝里对折,沿纸样的裁边画线。 3做领
①.翻领正面相对,车缝1cm,外翻缉0.5cm明线。
②.领座将粘衬的一片领座折烫1cm缉明线0.5cm,然后将2片领座正面夹于翻领面车缝1cm,外翻1cm 。
4 缉翻襟里襟
① 翻襟正面与前身左片反面对齐车缝1cm 然后翻与正面熨烫两边各缉0.6cm明线。
② 里襟:将里襟向里翻两折缉0.1cm明线。 5 烫袋
胸袋一个袋口面里反握2次,净宽2.5cm ,袋边缉明线0.1cm。 6钉袋
钉在左衣片上,袋边缉明线0.1cm。封袋口三角宽0.6cm,袋与大身对条对格,袋位准确,高低大小对称。 7拼接过肩
后衣片:将前后片过肩的正面各对齐后大身,车缝1cm,反折外过肩
缉0.1cm明线,然后前衣身对准过肩车缝1cm,缝份后倒,外过肩折烫1cm,缉明线0.1cm。
前衣片:车缝1cm,向后倒缝折烫1cm,缉0.1cm明线 8装领
将另一片领座与衣身对齐车缝1cm,翻于领座内缉明线0.1cm一周 9做袖
①袖口(宝剑头)缉明线0.1cm一周。
②袖克夫正面相对车缝1cm,翻折缉明线0.5cm。 10装袖
衣身敞开缝合衣袖,以表面为内对齐衣身与袖子做缝合衣袖车缝,弯曲强的部分要伸展缝份,车缝1cm。 11缝合摆缝 袖低缝
正面相对车缝1cm,缝份倒向后身。 12装袖克夫
克夫里片与袖子反面对齐车缝1cm,将缝份折入袖克夫缉明线0.1cm 13卷缉底边
将底边内握2次缉明线1cm。 14锁眼,钉扣,熨烫
在左衣身锁扣眼,右衣身缝扣,扣眼中心对齐纽扣中心,台领的扣眼要制成固定一端的锁缝。
五 心得感想
经过5周往返于新校区和文峰校区之间,我们结束了男衬衫的制作。在这过程中,有困难,有满足,有欣慰,更多的是收获。
通过衬衣工艺的学习,在老师的悉心指导下,掌握了衬衣的整个工艺流程,虽然衬衣逢制比较的难,流程也相当的复杂,但只要掌握了制衣的工艺流程,一步步慢慢的,不急噪,衬衣的缝制就不难学习了.还要注意的就是在具体操作时如果不明白的一定要问老师或同学,弄明白再做,否则就事倍功半,甚至还得返工.
六 成衣展示
范文五:衬衫裙子工艺流程
服装设计与工程专业
服装工艺设计(二)实习课程
班 级:
学 号:姓 名:指导老师:
日 期: 实 习 报 告 服工112 201105024209 宋英莉 2013年9月22日
服装工艺设计(二)实习报告
一、实习目的
1. 通过实习进一步熟练掌握电动工业缝纫机的使用;
2.掌握衬衫基本款式的工艺设计流程、工艺制作方法,完成衬衫基本款式
的工艺制作;
3.考察裙装款式和结构设计能力,并熟悉裙装常用款式的工艺流程及制作
4.具备一定的服装弊病分析能力和实际动手能力,为以后走向工作岗位从
事实际工作奠定基础。
二、 实习地点
服装工艺实验室142
三、时间安排
1、第1周:9月2日——9月6日衬衫的制作
2、第2周:9月9日——9月13日裙子的制作
3、第3周:9月16日——9月20日自由设计及实习报告的书写
四. 实习内容
(一)衬衫的制作
1.款式设计:
设计图
2.结构设计:包括成品规格设计、细部规格设计、制版:
3. 面料选择:因为细节的花样比较少,所以选择了棉布来诠释我的设计。
4. 制作过程:
第一步:放缝份、排料、剪裁。
第二步:做门襟。纸样上设计的是1.5厘米的门襟。在1.5厘米外放6cm ,贴上称,卷3cm 边,熨烫,再卷3cm 的边,熨烫平整,然后缉两道明线。
门禁完成图:
第三步:把后片与前片的肩膀处缝合起来。
第四步:上袖子。把袖片的前袖窿和后袖窿分别和衣片的前袖窿和后袖窿对齐。然后从前袖窿对齐处开始缝合,当快缝制袖窿顶端时停止,再从后袖
窿对齐处向袖窿顶端慢慢推进缝合,把多余的袖窿量均匀的缩缝制袖窿顶端。 第五步:缝合衣片侧缝和袖侧缝。
第六步: 袖开叉与袖克夫的缝制。女衬衫袖开叉较为简单。在做袖开叉时,缝制前熨烫平整,这样便于缝制。做袖克夫时,缝制前要先确定好袖克夫的长度,以便可以把袖子包裹完整,并且要熨烫平整,便于缝制。
完成如下图:
第七步:衣领翻折领的制作。衣领制作的是没有领台的翻折领,剪好领片之后粘衬;先把领面部分表面相对缝合在里面,然后翻过来熨烫,最后缉上双道明线。
完成如图:
第八步:缝合领子与衣身。缝制时要注意把衣身上的领子部分都包进去,并且缝制过程中要时刻注意领子的松紧度,适时的调整,以便缝制好的领子平整,不扭曲。
第九步:卷下摆、钉纽扣。
门襟处扣子局部图:
(二)裙子的制作
1. 款式设计图,完成品面图如下:
2.结构设计:根据自己的体型尺寸进行规格设计,然后打版,包括成品规格设计、细部规格设计、制版:
3. 面料选择:选择的的比较有立体感的稍厚的面料。
4. 制作过程:
第一步:排料剪裁。
第二步: 把剪好的各布片缝合在一起,缝制方法同衬衫前片,左侧完全缝合,左侧不和缝。
第三步:做裙摆,设计为工字褶,5cm 对一个褶。缝左侧,右侧留一段装隐形拉链。
第四步:安装隐形拉链,用单边压脚将隐形拉链固定在右侧缝上,上下端多余部分修剪固定,来回打倒针,防止拉链拉脱。
第五步:包边,将黑色料子裁4cm 宽长条,注意要斜裁,各边向内翻折1cm ,用熨斗压平,一边稍短与另一边。袖口和领子处包一厘米边,注意不要包扭。
第六步:所有毛边锁边,裙下摆锁边后卷一厘米,辑明线固定。
完成如图:
五、弊病分析及改良方法
1.裙子胸前省做的不够合体,可改进纸板。
2.衬衫领子辑的不够精致。
3. 布料颜色选的有些老气,成品考虑换面料。
六. 实习体会
转眼间已经是大三上学习期了,这次的实习做的是衬衣和裙子,有了之前上机的经验与教训,制作起来总得来说还是比较得心应手的。我认为重点是制版的精确与否!
我们严格按照课本上的版,尽量很精确的打板,完成之后我先用白胚布制作了一个衬衫,由于白胚布比较挺括,做出来效果很不好。但是熟悉了制作衬衣的工艺。通过亲身试穿白胚样衣,发现肩部很宽,领子有些大,很合体。因此对纸样有所更改:把肩线缩短了1cm ,袖窿整体挖深1cm 。取消前片腹部省。改用较柔软的布料做成衣。效果还不错。
裙子在于自己设计以及把设计图变成成衣的能力,其中考察到我们的创造能力,机缝能力,和制作工艺的能力,是一次很好的锻炼。完成后,看着自己做的裙子很合身,更是激发了我们设计制作的积极性和信心!
在实习课上培养了我们更好的实践动手能力和技术的灵活运用能力,启
发和培养了学生的原创性思维,通过想象,联想,逆向,思维训练,设计构思创新,信息采集,材料构成,工艺设计展示等一系列训练,完成从设计到制作出产品的全过程,提高了原创设计能力和动手能力。